Power washing came first. Sanding and repairing as necessary. Priming again. We didn’t start the actual paint job until the 4th day.

We are very happy with the work, and certainly recommend Lance and his team.

After talking to a variety of folks for recommendations, getting bids, we opted to go with Saratoga Pavers. They had the paver we wanted to use in the color we wanted, and they had a nice gap in their schedule so we didn’t have a hole in the driveway for too long.

Three videos, condensing 9 hours of work each day into about 1 minute, provide a visual of the process. Then we had to wait 2 days before we could drive on it, to let the sealant cure.

I did some research to figure out which model Rainbird I should get, but couldn’t find anyone who would take out the old and install the new. Fortunately, our original irrigation expert came back to San Jose for a big job this spring, and was willing to do the work between his other obligations.

We selected the Rainbird ESP-ME3 series, with the LNK WiFi module, and added a rain sensor. We also added a flow sensor, which can help us determine if a circuit doesn’t shut off, has a leak, etc. After some initial issues with the flow sensor, we got it all settled so that we can track water usage, really important with the current drought. We also put in a “normally off” Master Valve, which will shut off the water when the sprinklers aren’t running, and prevent leaks.

Of course, now I will probably redo mom’s setup so that we can track water usage the same way, not just adjust the programming, etc.

*See also the post Drip Irrigation conversion from 2015.

Step 1: Figure out how to disassemble the existing fan and take it down. Of course, we first put it together and hung it up nearly 20 years ago, so we don’t have the manual any more. Total time: 90 minutes.

Step 2-A: Swear at the manufacturer who provides you with 3″ long screws, but doesn’t also provide you with the appropriate size and length drill bit*. Regular drill bits in the 9/64″ size are about 2″ long… which potentially leaves you driving in a full inch of that screw by hand (because a drill driver will just strip the head). All done while on a ladder, and working over your head. We tried, but couldn’t get that last half inch screwed into the joist. Take out the first screw before you totally mess up the Philips head. Use the second screw. Do the same. Decide it’s time to quit for the day, while leaving off the circuit breaker.

Step 2-B: go to Home Depot to get the special 12″ long drill bit, and more screws.

Step 2-C: Bend one screw. Remove it. Break one screw. Shift the bracket location and drill a new pilot hole.

Step 2-D: Return to Home Depot, get more screws. Also get a nifty ratchet screwdriver. Hope that I don’t get blisters on my palm from all of this.

Step 2-E: Finally get the mounting bracket installed. Total time for this first part (not counting dinner and sleep): 6 hours.

Step 3: Connect the wiring, mount the central unit. It’s heavy, and plan on two people just to get it onto the posts. Everything else is a one-person job. Mounting the blades is a bit fussy, because the alignment is tricky to see when you’re working above your head. Mount the light brackets, light (LED) and glass cover. Total time: 1 hour. Turn on the circuit breaker, turn on the switch, and viola! New fan works like a dream.

Step 4: Setup the app. SIMPLEconnect is not simple. Apparently, many items in the Internet of Things (IOT) only work with 2.4GHz wifi networks. Your phone (or tablet) needs to be using that network for the setup to be completed. Of course, most of our phones nowadays use the 5GHz networks, so the two won’t talk so you can do the setup. You will get an error saying it’s Unable to Pair, and you have “Inadequate Permission” — which of course doesn’t actually tell you what’s wrong.

We had to rename most of our household network to isolate one device that we could force to stay on 2.4GHz, then “forget” the normal network and then rejoin the network, and then we could set up the app. Once it’s setup, however, you can shift everything back to normal.

See also this article: https://pocketables.com/2018/05/how-to-set-up-that-2-4ghz-device-on-your-dual-ghz-network.html

*See also this post: https://www.monty-doyle.com/?p=1240

I did some research, and found the Battery Tender line of products from Deltran.  You just put the clips on the battery, plugged it in to the wall, and when the green light was solid, you had a full charge.  Of course, this required opening the hood to get to the battery.  What if I wanted to be able to quickly put the battery on and off the charger?  Deltran thought of this, they created the Ring Terminal Harness, which attaches to the battery posts and has a quick connect attachment to the charger itself.  I put one on my mom’s car, as she started driving less and less, and we just leave it attached all the time except when we are driving her car.  I put one on the truck, as we drive it infrequently, and it would be nice to boost it easily… but then the battery died.  The quick connect was not capped, and we could not figure out if this was the problem, or if it was just that the battery was old and at end of life.

So then I got their Digital Voltage Display accessory.  You attach this to the end of the cable and it will tell you what charge the battery has.  What we figured out is that the truck needs a fairly high voltage, definitely above 12V, in order to start.

They have several other accessories, including a USB port, a wireless battery monitor, a DC power connector and an ODBII connector. All can be seen here: http://products.batterytender.com/Accessories/

Over the years, we have had ongoing problems with ice buildup in the freezer section.  And it became clear that it was water running down from the upper section.  We had defrosted it, to the point of being able to get the obvious ice dealt with, every couple of years. Earlier this year, we got a pair of TempSticks, which let us check on the temperature and humidity in both compartments.  The humidity always seemed a bit high, but there was no information in the user manual or on the web about what should be “normal” in either a fridge or freezer.

I did some searching on the web, and found this video by Dion Hock about his solution:  https://youtu.be/nGdIS1uLAto.  I remember having a standard freezer-over-fridge that did something similar years ago, so the whole concept of taking off the back of the upper unit was not foreign to me.

This is what I saw once I finally got the back off:

The entire back area was frozen solid, and this was 2 hours after I pulled the plug and started to let the freezer defrost!

Once I got the next layer off, I could see the drainage area.  The entire thing was full of ice still, and the actual drainage channel was a solid plug of ice.  That drain tube goes all the way down to the bottom of the device, to drain into the evaporation pan which is under the freezer compartment.

The basic defrost was done in about 2 hours, but it took over 6 hours and the application of some hot water using a turkey baster and straw directly into the top of the channel to get the ice to melt and the water to drain.

Now to see how long it takes before it gets iced over again.

After shopping a bit, it looked as if nearly everything was going to be by one of the major faucet/plumbing manufacturers.  Delta had a couple of different styles and colors that she was willing to let me get.  We got one like this – concealed mount, stainless, fairly basic.

Installation is a pain — it may well be worth hiring someone with experience to do this.  I was not dealing with tile, just plaster.  They tell you what size drill bit to use (a plus), but fail to tell you how deep you need to drill your holes in the wood studs (a major minus).  The screws are longer than the drill bit by a good 1/2″ — which means that you will be putting a 3″ long screw into wood without the benefit of a pre-drilled hole at the very end.  Where you have to use the most torque to get that screw to advance.

I can see why they specifically say not to put in the screw with a powered screwdriver or drill, you’ll just over-torque and mess up the screw head.  What I can’t see is why they don’t provide a drill bit that is appropriate for the screws.  I’ve purchased many products over the years that do exactly that, to make sure you use the right size/length.

My hand hurts, and I don’t even have 2 screws fully placed.  

After her fall, we knew that she needed someone in the house with her full time.  But she had spread her papers (financial and otherwise) all over the house.  I didn’t have time to actually sort and clean it all up, so opted to lock up the rooms until I was able to get to it.  When dad built the house in the 1960s, he opted for Sargent locks.  They are extremely well made with lots of security features (not surprising, they do high-end commercial locks).  But that means that they are not easy to remove.

After some searching, I found this video.  But using a vise grip or wrench damages the finish.  What other options exist?  I remembered a weird tool in dad’s collection, searched a bit on the Sargent Lock website, and realized that I had the necessary wrench.  With that and a phillips screwdriver, I was good to go.

Unfortunately, although I wanted to replace these with new Sargent locks, it wasn’t to be.  They are only doing commercial sales now, and the couple of local dealers I spoke with weren’t interested in a small sale.  It’s too bad, as they have some really cool options for key code (push-button) locks, proximity sensor locks, etc.

I ended up changing out the interior locks on the bedrooms and basement doors to Schlage lever-handles.  They’re nice, but mom doesn’t really like them.